In Anderson’s goodbye message published on his Instagram, he spotlighted the Craft Prize as one of his proudest achievements at Loewe. The Loewe Foundation Craft Prize, which he launched in 2016, aims to “showcase and celebrate innovation, excellence, and artistic merit in modern craftsmanship.” Since its inception, it has become one of the most prestigious craft awards globally. Covering a wide array of disciplines including ceramics, jewellery, textiles, woodwork, glass, metalwork, furniture, papercraft, and lacquer, the prize provides a glimpse into the vibrant state of contemporary craft.
Agenda-setting
Tracing Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe legacy
By Barry Pierce | Fashion | 19 March 2025
As difficult as it is to type these words, we must face that truth: Jonathan Anderson has left Loewe. But, to take heed of that old saying – don’t be sad because it’s over, smile because it happened – we’ve decided to take a trip down memory lane. For over a decade, Anderson provided us with endless brilliance. He turned a quiet Spanish leather house into the biggest brand in the world and had a lot of fun along the way. Let’s take a look back.
Loewe before Jonathan
While Loewe is now regarded as one of fashion’s most important brands, it was still largely recognised as a leather goods label back in 2013. Before Jonathan Anderson took the reins as creative director, Doncaster’s own Stuart Vevers led the brand. Vevers, who had won Accessory Designer of the Year at the Fashion Awards in 2006, joined Loewe in 2008 after leaving his position as creative director at Mulberry. During his time at Loewe, he revitalised the brand, though his focus remained primarily on leather goods and accessories, with less emphasis on runway collections. When Anderson arrived, he shifted the brand’s direction, bringing Loewe back to the forefront of runway fashion. After his time at Loewe, Vevers went on to take the helm at Coach, where he still rules today.
Loewe’s SS11 photography by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott
Jonathan before Loewe
Anderson began his career as a visual merchandiser at Prada, working under the legendary Manuela Pavesi. In 2008, he launched JW Anderson and did a two season stint at Fashion East. Initially just a menswear label, he branched out into womenswear for FW10. He joined Loewe just after LVMH acquired a minority stake in JW Anderson in 2013.
In these early years, he made his name as a superstar of menswear, being extensively featured in the fashion magazines of the time. From the very start, his designs were marked by signature elements that remain synonymous with his work today – obscure references, androgynous silhouettes, sinister flourishes, and a distinct emphasis on craftsmanship and materials.
Backstage at JW Anderson, FW14, photography by Harry Carr
Artistic inspirations
Anderson’s Loewe collections consistently drew inspiration from the art world. His final collection, FW25, paid tribute to artists Josef and Anni Albers, whose pattern works he faithfully recreated on dresses. For SS25, the photography of Peter Hujar served as his muse and for FW24, he honoured Richard Hawkins. In prior years, Loewe unveiled capsule collections inspired by the works of Charles Rennie Mackintosh and William de Morgan. Even the renowned curator and art critic Hans Ulrich Obrist became the face of Loewe for FW23.
The Craft Prize
Scott Chaseling, Australia
‘Beyond a Slippery Grip’, glass, 80 x 90 x 150 mm, 2024
Jonathan Anderson: Costume Designer
In addition to his work at Loewe, Anderson ventured into the realm of costume design. His two collaborations with Italian director Luca Guadagnino, designing costumes for Challengers and Queer, earning him widespread acclaim. It made sense for Guadagnino to go for Anderson, they are two artists with unbelievably hectic schedules (Challengers and Queer were released within a year of each other) and their knowledge of queer histories and cultures are unparalleled. Plus, Anderson had already gleaned many of Guadagnino’s stars for campaigns prior to their official collaboration. Which leads to…
Still from Challengers by Luca Guadagnino, 2024
The extended Loewe family
Every time a new Loewe campaign dropped, it was an important day. In recent years, Loewe’s campaigns have become as iconic as the garments themselves. Frequent faces included Josh O’Connor, Taylor Russell, Greta Lee, Omar Apollo, Kit Conner, Jamie Dornan, Leslie Manville, Drew Starkey, Daniel Craig and even Maggie Smith. Behind the camera was no different with Steven Meisel, Jamie Hawkesworth, David Sims and Juergen Teller being just a small handful of the photographers who shot campaigns for Loewe. It really was a family affair.