Pics from the underground
For the past decade, London curator, artist and musician Sheet Noise has been filling his titular Instagram page with underground fashion, art, literature, film, and music images. Building an archive of cultural touch points, a quick flick through his grid will uncover a 90s Thurston Moore posing in front of a Kate Moss Calvin Klein ad, literary icon Kathy Acker in ski-style sunglasses photographed topless by Robert Mapplethorpe, Baltimore queen Cookie Mueller laden in flowers and the shirred satin of her open casket and cult actor and director Zöe Lund reclining on a sofa, toes curled on a coffee table. But the beauty of Sheet Noise’s work isn’t only the rare images he curates and how they reflect the times in which they were taken, but the conversation it generates among his followers, who often layer the images with new information. For example, a 1977 photograph of Patti Smith saw a follower identify the photo on the wall above Smith’s head as French poet Arthur Rimbaud and his brother on the day of their first holy communion.
Just as his Instagram page evolved from Tumblr, Sheet Noise’s DJing career, which began at the tender age of 13, started out on vinyl, on ‘terrible decks that wouldn’t stay in time’ until he eventually moved onto CDs and his current USB format. Similarly, his curating efforts have morphed in form too. In a serendipitous, ‘I’m thinking of you while you’re thinking of me’ moment, Enfants Riches Déprimés creative director Henri Alexander Levy already had the artist in mind to help source records and books for his vinyl/book bar, Anti Public Library, when Sheet Noise approached him suggesting they work on a project together. The olive-green space with dark wood panelled interiors which opened on Rue Charlot in Paris last year, is where you can sip sake or vin rouge, inhale Japanese incense, listen to Kas Product, The Gun Club, Nico or The Sisters of Mercy on vinyl while flipping through books featuring Throbbing Gristle and Johnny Thunders or the works of Deborah Turbeville, Antoni Tàpies and Dash Snow. It’s an IRL portal to enjoy and take home underground artefacts. Soon you’ll be able to hear some of Sheet Noise’s own music too – an EP he wrote and produced in collaboration with Maresz is coming out later this year on Citi-trax, and a solo work will soon be released on his own label too.
In ode to the beautiful rigours of another Paris Fashion Week recently finished, we asked Sheet Noise to pull out some of his favourite fashion imagery.
Vivienne Westwood Nostalgia of Mud Collection, 1982
“Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren are my entry point to fashion. I first discovered them via their punk-era designs modelled on the Sex Pistols at the tender age of ten. What’s incredible about this 1982 collection is the level of research on the designs. A lot of the fabrics, designs and pieces are directly referencing clothing found in tombs on exhumed Chinese Female Mummies as long ago as 2nd to 4th century BC.”
Vivienne Westwood Nostalgia of Mud Collection, 1982
Jean Paul Gaultier costume detail from The Fifth Element, Luc Besson, 1997
“Jean Paul Gaultier incredibly designed over 1000 colourful and futuristic costumes for the film. The equivalent of about ten collections! I love the mix of colours, materials and textures on display here. Very sexy.”
Jean Paul Gaultier costume detail from The Fifth Element, Luc Besson, 1997
Catherine Deneuve as the Vampire Lady Miriam in The Hunger, Tony Scott, 1983
“Catherine Deneuve, vampires …nuff said really. Reminds me of the sort of outfit someone might have worn to the Blitz club.”
Catherine Deneuve as the Vampire Lady Miriam in The Hunger, Tony Scott, 1983
Christiane F. & friend, Hamburg by Ilse Ruppert, 1983
“The origins of ‘Heroin chic’. This is one of my favourite photos I’ve ever posted. Something about the colour palate, the pose and the clothes they’re wearing. Ilse Ruppert’s photos are perhaps my favourite documents of the German Post-Punk & Neue Deutsche Welle scene.”
Christiane F. & friend, Hamburg by Ilse Ruppert, 1983
Linda Evangelista, Michaela Bercu & Kirsten Owen, by Peter Lindbergh, 1988
“An iconic image to say the least – avant garde minimalism at it’s best. Lindbergh’s style completely revamped standards of fashion photography in the 1990s and beyond.”
Linda Evangelista, Michaela Bercu & Kirsten Owen, by Peter Lindbergh, 1988
Alexander McQueen FW96 Dante Collection
“Considered one of the most important shows in McQueen’s career. Lace was one of the principal fabrics in this show, which you can see here covering the model’s face and body here. I especially love the skeletal hand wrapped around the model’s face. Notably this show included the Joel-Peter Witkin-inspired Crucifix masks.”
Alexander McQueen FW96 Dante Collection
Thierry Mugler’s Robot Suit, 1995
“Modelled here by Nadja Auermann on its runway premier at one of the most iconic and unforgettable shows of the 1990s. The garment was inspired by Haime Sorayama’s erotic robot art and the 1927 sci-fi movie classic Metropolis.”
Thierry Mugler Robot Suit, 1995