Rainbow robes, snake scarves and furry animal print coat-hat combos, à la Kurt Cobain. Preppy knitted vests, western jackets and sequin flames. Bluemarble’s FW23 runway show might have taken place in Paris’ saintly American Cathedral, but it was a carnival of excess, energy and desire. New York-born and Paris- raised, Bluemarble founder Anthony Alvarez has been combining these worlds since establishing the brand in 2019, elevating American subcultural heritage through European high craft. Establishing a new beat, the result is a curated mash-up of skate and suit, borrowed and bespoke, tradition and pop. 

Ella Joyce: FW23 was an incredible celebration of life, texture and colour. What was the inspiration behind it? 
Anthony Alvarez: This collection is a voyage between the carnivals of Venice and New Orleans: Venice for its mysticism and heritage and New Orleans for its cultural diversity, its history and aesthetic. I’ve always wanted to go to a carnival, but for this collection I wanted to see this crossover between the United States and Europe through the desire to celebrate and unite people. 

EJ: It was such a joyous collection, what were your personal feelings and emotions when you began working on it? How did that inform the way you wanted others to experience the show? 
AA: I was creating this collection right at the end of summer, so it felt great to go into two carnivals that are really different celebrations. I needed the colour, I needed to look into different cultures and see different ways of celebrating people. I feel happy to gather our community and express the joy and optimism we have here with those who follow us. 

EJ: There were a lot of references to skate, surf and sport, what’s your relation to these worlds? 
AA: Growing up, I always had a passion for [the] outdoors and extreme sports, I was very adventurous. I loved skateboarding, and basketball as well. I used to go on surfing trips with friends and I’d go to basketball camps, so I try to join these worlds through my collections. This is one of the reasons I created the brand, to bring different people together. [It’s] something I’ve done all my life and it brings me a lot of pleasure. I’ve always loved US skate culture from the 90s and early 2000s. I loved the MTV generation, seeing red carpets and music awards, these things are all parts of me and in every collection. Growing up in the 2000s, the MTV Music Awards had a profound impact on me. Artists like Snoop Dogg, Aaliyah, and Pharrell Williams were not only incredibly talented but also had a unique sense of style and expression that left a lasting impression. Witnessing those memorable moments during my childhood has most definitely influenced my creative vision.

EJ: Can you tell us more about your love of basketball? 
AA: My father, who was an avid basketball fan, shared his passion with me at an early age. Growing up in New York, I naturally became a Knicks fan and developed a deep admiration for players like Michael Jordan, Allen Iverson, and Dwyane Wade. When I step onto the court, it’s like entering a different world where I can free my mind and find a sense of flow. Basketball is not just a sport for me, it’s a part of a broader culture that I find incredibly fascinating. Through the sport, I’ve had the opportunity to meet new people and connect with different communities. Playing in Paris has been particularly exciting as it has introduced me to a vibrant scene.

“I’ve always loved US skate culture from the 90s and early 2000s. I loved the MTV generation, seeing red carpets and music awards, these things are all parts of me and in every collection.”

EJ: The show was soundtracked by a mash-up of songs, from the Black Eyed Peas to Minnie Riperton, how does music play a role in your work? 
AA: Music plays a very important role in my practice and also represents the eclectic side of the collection. It’s one of my favourite parts of preparing the show because of the celebratory aspect and understanding of the collection, not just through the garments but how they’re embodied by the models, the location and the music. I was so happy to see people in the crowd moving their heads to the music – it was a voyage through different genres and time. We had funk, punk, r’n’b and soul. It was all music I love to listen to. It’s also very inspiring in Paris because there are so many young artists releasing music. These artists captivate me with their free-spirited nature and freedom of expression. They continuously push boundaries, introducing new genres and breaking convention.

EJ: How does that new Parisian generation feed into your work? 
AA: The Bluemarble looks are strongly inspired by my personality. It’s being nomad, it’s being free-spirited, it’s different parts of the world. We’re based in Paris and it’s a city I love and that inspires me, but even though the brand is Parisian it’s also from different parts of the world through my cultural heritage. There is a real desire for freedom in what we do, it’s colourful, it’s playful.

EJ: Can we expect to see themes from FW23 extend to next season? 
AA: There’s a natural evolution every season, [but] I don’t think about interlinking the different collections. It all depends on my state of mind and the people I’ve met. I spent some time in California earlier this year and I went to the Philippines last November, so these trips will play a role in the collection. It’s really natural where I want to go [creatively], it’s important for me to let freedom into my life.

EJ: Travel seems fundamental to your work. 
AA: Travel has always been very important for me. I like to travel not just to other countries but in my mind through imagination or movies. I like to push it further and imagine new characters in my head, where they would go and who they would be.

EJ: The name Bluemarble is a reference to the first picture taken of Earth from space, why did that image resonate with you? 
AA: It’s the first picture taken of the Earth in its entirety and when I thought about the name of the brand it was so striking that this should be the name. I want to represent all of us, connected. It put everything in perspective, the beauty of the planet, it just made a lot of sense.

“Even though the brand is Parisian it’s also from different parts of the world through my cultural heritage. There is a real desire for freedom in what we do…”

EJ: Thinking back to last year, you won the ANDAM Pierre Bergé Prize – what did that mean to you and how did it change things for the brand? 
AA: 2022 was a magical year for us – winning the Pierre Bergé Prize meant the world. It’s a special recognition from the industry. I feel so thankful to have been selected as a finalist, and winning it was incredible for me and my team, it motivates us to share our universe even more. It helped us with mentoring and development and we were able to open our first pop- up, which was a big step for the brand and a great opportunity to meet our community in Paris. Flexibility and the opportunity to have complete freedom in what you present is what makes having a young brand so special.

EJ: Looking forwards, how do you see your vision of the Bluemarble- wearer evolve? 
AA: It’s an interesting time because I launched the brand right before the pandemic, so from the get-go we had to adapt and find solutions. But it actually helped us be even more precise in the Bluemarble aesthetic and DNA. We took time during the pandemic to really narrow things down, I think generally it trained us to not let the current environment determine the future of the brand. The Bluemarble man or woman is very free-spirited, curious and adventurous – that will continue across seasons no matter what.

Interview originally published in HERO 30.