Late Capitalism

SS24 Preview: Conner Ives pays tribute to Julianne Moore
By Barry Pierce | Fashion | 14 September 2023

Conner Ives‘ designs have always felt like the sartorial equivalent of the mid-Atlantic accent: that heady blend of America and Britain, mixed and melded together in equally harmonious and clashing ways. Born and raised in New York, Ives has been based in London for ten years now, and the designer’s eponymous brand truly epitomises this dual heritage, reworking pop culture references through upcycled fabrics and progressive craft. In preparation for his SS24 collection, we asked Ives for a preview and he offered up a still of Julianne Moore’s LBD in Hannibal. Iconic.

What was your mindset heading into this season?
“It was a little fraught. The title of the collection is Late Capitalism, not as a means of provocation, but rather an observation of the strange times we find ourselves in. I think a lot of my work is rooted in social anthropology, observing and reacting to the now. I had been feeling odd, and I wanted to explore that.”

What references are on your moodboard?
“The black, v-line dress Julianne Moore wears in Hannibal. Lots of 60’s Pierre Cardin couture images. Lots of photos of Gwyneth Paltrow in the early days of her career. And then there was a deep dive into DIY craft. Soda tab crochet bracelets and belts, things that felt familiar, hand-made.”

Can you tell us any specifics from the collection?
“We have partnered this season with Depop to help us source raw material, like t-shirts, sweatshirts, football jerseys and things of the like. In our unique production process, sourcing has become one of the most challenging processes, working within pre-send production schedules. This Depop partnership will allow us to work with sellers on their platform to support our needs, fill in gaps, and source some of the best vintage across the UK.”

What has been something you’ve learned from this season?
“We made most of these clothes ourselves in the studio. As a company grows, you can sometimes lose touch with the reason you started doing this in the first place. This collection was a reminder of how much I love making clothes, realising an idea, solving a problem. I love making things with my team, friends, collaborators. It always is the best part of this job.”

Conner Ives will debut their SS24 collection on September 19th.

GALLERYConner Ives FW23

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