You can’t think of Levi’s without thinking about 501s, created in 1873 as a patent for copper rivets on work pants, the iconic denim jeans have now become one of the most recognisable pieces of clothing ever created. A staple in every decade since, worn by rule-breakers, A-listers, rock stars and everyone in between, 501s have garnered a reputation worthy of cultural icon status.

In light of turning 150 this year, the US brand are tracing the history of its iconic design from humble beginnings to present day. Popular at the turn of the century after becoming a staple of western workwear and a John Wayne favourite in movies such as Stagecoach, when the 1950s rolled around the 501s skyrocketed. Graduating from the realm of workwear into the mainstream, a refashioned design featuring a slimmer cut leg and cinched waist transitioned the denim into an everyday essential.

As biker gang leader Johnny Strabler in 1953 film The Wild One, Marlon Brando was responsible for cementing the jeans’ reputation as a symbol for counterculture cool, while the 501s were subsequently embraced across subcultural movements: hippies wore them low-slung at Woodstock to belt out Fleetwood Mac lyrics, Civil Rights protestors wore them to defend their livelihoods, Mods and Rockers fought in them and people sat atop the Berlin Wall decked out in Levi’s denim amid a wave of revolution. Endless cultural icons each had their own take on the 501s, Bob Dylan donned a pair on his Freewheelin’ album cover, Kate Bush wore hers shredded on stage in the 80s, Lauryn Hill’s were decorated with graphic patches and Steve Jobs built an empire in them. As Levi’s arrive at this monumental 150 year milestone, the 501s continue to evolve with this season’s new 501® ’54 for men and 501® ’81 for women.

Below we dig through the 501 archives, revealing rare ads, shapes and photography.