Nature + form

“You cannot separate your creativity from your surroundings” OAMC’s Luke Meier unpicks his SS23 collection
By Ella Joyce | Fashion | 17 January 2023

A study of functionality and form underpins OAMC‘s serenely minimalist SS23 offering. Born from creative director Luke Meier’s fascination with the outdoors, the collection draws parallels between the beauty of nature and the striking geometry of its landscape. Arriving at the intersection of Alpine garments and modernised sensibility, Meier’s fine-tuned aesthetic is materialised in voluminous silhouettes, monochromatic two pieces and natural prints.

Intricate details champion technicality as military garments are repurposed, vintage nylon parachutes are deconstructed and denim is introduced for the first time. Marrying characteristics of the jagged Alpine landscape with streetwear sees matte metal chains paired with climbing ropes and sneakers inspired by vintage trail running shoes. Natural hues of brown, sage, lilac and burnt orange allow the garments form to shine, working in contrast with the striking graphics peppered throughout. Ahead of the collection’s launch, we chatted with Luke Meier to discuss inspirations, the garments’ technicality and his design aesthetic.

Ella Joyce: SS23 focuses on merging mountaineering practicality with a modern sensibility, how did you arrive at this aesthetic?
Luke Meier: This aesthetic is something very personal to me. I appreciate the functionality of mountaineering garments, shoes, and accessories, but I wanted to add my own aesthetic feeling.

EJ: You mention taking inspiration from time spent in the outdoors, how do your surroundings affect your design process? 
LM: They are fundamental, whether consciously inspiring or subconsciously. You cannot separate your creativity from your surroundings.

EJ: Can you talk us through some of the techniques used in the pieces which merge form and functionality?
LM: We have many technical details we tried to use in an aesthetically pleasing way. Of course hardware such as cordlocks and waterproof zippers are used to manipulate form, however we also worked a lot with natural fibre fabrics, which have function due to the structure of weave or the finishing.  Some of these fabrics, while very light, can hold an impressive volume so they were utilised to create voluminous garments with geometric and dimensional pockets.

EJ: This is also your first time introducing denim to the brand, how does this play into the collection?
LM: I always appreciated the fact that denim is a very authentic fabric and has been present in the West Coast mountaineering world for a long time.  Growing up on the West Coast, often very functional garments are worn with jeans or denim shirts, and there is something personally nostalgic in that combination for me.

EJ: Can you take us through those incredible prints that feature throughout the collection?
LM: They are all inspired by nature. Some are more explicit and some are more abstract, but they all originate from natural patterns.

OAMC’s SS23 collection is available online now, click here to shop.

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