Dries Van Noten arrives into the Spring/Summer season like we all do, kicking and screaming out of winter’s gloomy shadow like his life depends on it. The coats sowing the very first seeds of his latest collection are a keen reflection of this mood, puckered and contorted as if folding in on themselves, or imposingly large, held together by a tiny-top line of chunky buttons. Sleek tuxedo jackets have their waists nipped, shoulders full, their sleeves akin to a bunch of plump-yet-decaying grapes, trailing fringe in their wake. These growths soon fester, exploding from halternecks and odd folded growths that sprout from pleated skirts, perfectly imperfect. 

Then, a slowburn performance of glittering blue skirts and crinkled pastels seep into the mix. Noten’s approach to formalwear was loose-fitted and crinkled. He cherishes asymmetric patchwork dresses, trousers with surpluses of raw hems, and the perfect slouchy button-down. But before you know it, spring has sprung in the Noten universe. Gorgeous – emphasis on the gorgeous – flora prints burst into focus, petals and stems in bright technicolour, covering dresses, deep-cut suit jackets, tactile blouses, wrinkly dusters and more – not a colourless gap in sight. Ruffles are even more ruffled, dancing over shoulders or falling to the knee with the impassioned swoop of a flamenco dancer. This is Noten at his best, designing in motion for occasions of bloom.