For FW22, Y/Project’s co-ed collection asked: “Why not have fun?” It’s a pretty simple question, but the answer is far more complicated: you’d be forgiven if you’d been bogged down over the last few years. But Glenn Martens wants us to forget all of that, just for a moment, and return to what makes fashion really fun, the sex.

It positively drips from his FW22 runway, exposing the skin in deconstructed lattice-weave knits, and capturing ogling eyes with phallic-printed Trompe-L’eoil trousers. The latter is echoed throughout the collection in a slew of colourful nude prints that swamp suits, vests, tulle mini-skirts and flowing gowns, all pointing towards Martens forthcoming collaboration with famed French couturier, Jean-Paul Gaultier. 

Whether Martens’ models are escaping the bedroom of a cheating lover, or rushing to work still pissed from the night before, the collection’s pleasure-seeking oeuvre was mirrored in lop-sided silhouettes and overly excessive fastenings. Zips curled around jackets and tight necklines in sporadic fashion, buttoned fastenings rushed to outstretch into the wrong holes, and toggled jumper hoods scrunched across the forehead as if your mum had shrunk them in the tumble drier. Trousers were sliced with sloping waistbands, trenches constructed out of dusky acid-washed denim, and caftans quite literally got rhinestoned. It’s a sweaty fashion fever dream, but from this crafty Belgian designer, we’d expect nothing less.