The world is ablaze, in every sense of the word, and Willy Chavarria is not one to turn a blind eye. Returning to Paris for the second time to present his SS26 collection, while most designers shy away from addressing current affairs or offer a token gesture, Chavarria opened his show with a poignant tribute to the thousands of immigrants and US citizens currently being detained by ICE. A procession of 35 men wearing white t-shirts made in partnership with the American Civil Liberties Union walked the runway, each dropping to their knees and clasping their hands behind their backs. A moment of reflection on the treatment of immigrants in the United States, and in the prisons of El Salvador.

Over the years, Chavarria has remained steadfast and uncompromising in his dedication to penning diverse stories of American identity, and this season he turned to his own childhood, presenting a collection titled Huron – the name of the town where the designer grew up in California. Chavarria’s Chicano upbringing has continuously underpinned the designer’s Latino Americana-infused design language, translated this season into luxe tailoring cut with sharp lapels and boxy silhouettes. That same tailoring was crafted into the designer’s womenswear offering: oversized suiting to match their male counterparts, structured satin co-ords cinched at the waist, and trench-style leather dresses.

Chavarria’s signature West Coast tracksuits were out in force, with trackies, bomber jacket co-ords, sweatshirts and graphic tees all emblazoned with the ‘Willy’ logo front and centre. The designer debuted the third iteration of his adidas Originals collaboration, which saw long 3-stripe shorts layered over boxers, jerseys and a new sneaker drop. Once the show came to a close, Chavarria took his bow wearing a bright purple Zoot suit, handing out roses to guests as he went. “I’m not interested in luxury as a symbol of privilege. I’m interested in luxury as a symbol of truth in one’s own character,” said Chavarria of this season’s collection. “Exquisite tailoring and craftsmanship worn to elevate one’s personal intent – that’s power. That’s fashion.”