It was a season of change for Vivienne Westwood. The brand vacated its usual spot on the Paris schedule, showing instead at Bar Rivoli in Milan. It also went all in on menswear, presenting its first dedicated men’s collection since 2017, rather than the usual co-ed lineup. The result was a loud and proud array of dandyish looks that took classical Milanese tailoring and injected it with a lot of fun.

On the tailoring side, there were pinstriped suits with cartoonishly pointed lapels, bellowing and breezy trousers that floated through the air, trousers that rode so high that ties were tucked into the waist, and shirts that featured the classic Westwood curved placket. Elsewhere, there were body suits that had circular cutouts, putting the wearer’s abs on proud display, and padded short shorts in garish pinks and oranges, naturally paired with a crop top. In a classic bit of Westwood gender-fuckery, there were several ruched dresses, in delicate velvets, worn chest hair-out and paired with cork-heeled platforms. The final look, a take on a toga, would’ve looked great on David Sylvian from Japan back in the day.