Tribal dance

Vivienne Westwood FW24: yodelling, codpieces and the work of Giovanni Battista Moroni
By Ella Joyce | Fashion | 3 March 2024

If you weren’t in the industrial space of Paris’ Censier University campus, then you could have been easily mistaken to think you’d stumbled upon a forest tribe summoning solstice when entering this season’s Vivienne Westwood show. Opening with a performance from SunBengSitting x Sons of Sissy, a Vienna-based folk dance trio who yodelled while dizzyingly spinning for minutes on end, tap danced and hacked at wood with a swinging sledgehammer.

Taking its name from Giovanni Battista Moroni’s 16th-century painting The Tailor, Andreas Kronthaler was inspired by the elegance and austerity of his work, continuing to steer the legacy of Vivienne Westwood forward while honouring the past. Renaissance staples were given a modern makeover as codpieces were slashed and pierced, corseted gowns were cut low on the bust and voluminous sleeves ballooned from the shoulder. Mixing age-old references with sportswear characteristics saw techy iterations of hooded dresses merge with oversized tailoring and sky-high platform heels. Hooded forms engulfed models as they walked down the runway, pinstripe co-ords arrived in rich plum hues, leather was fashioned into exaggerated trousers and clashing tartan was of course high on the agenda, it wouldn’t be a Viv show without it.

GALLERYCatwalk images from Vivienne Westwood WOMENS-FALL-WINTER-24