It was always destined to be a bittersweet moment at Emporio Armani this season, the house’s first runway since Giorgio Armani’s passing just three weeks ago. So recent was the loss that you have to imagine this must have been among the final collections Armani personally oversaw.

The collection, which evoked the “impulse and shifting sensations that accompany a return to the city after a journey,” offered a vast wardrobe of day and eveningwear – coats and jackets, pyjamas and skirts. A worldly sensibility permeated the show with nods to kimono-style fastenings, Ikat fabrics sourced from India, and raffia caps. Silhouettes were loose, with waistcoats recurring as a motif throughout.

When the finale began, so too did the applause. Even the models joined in, breaking with tradition. At the very end, the spotlight illuminated the place where Armani himself would always appear for his final wave. This time, it was Silvana Armani who emerged, blowing a kiss skyward and standing in quiet, solitary grace.