Assembly

Sinead O’Dwyer invited guests to a show-seminar
By Alex James Taylor | 17 September 2023

Inside the Royal College of Art’s fashion design department, Sinead O’Dwyer brought us to her former classroom, where she honed her craft. Sat in seminar-style seating, the show took place as an interview between O’Dwyer and editor Mahoro Seward, as models showcased the designer’s SS24 collection.

Reflecting on notions of school uniforms and after-school dressing, twisted, sliced and reimagined. The joy of a youthful mix-and-match wardrobe comes to the fore, in that distinctly O’Dwyer sensibility. Shirts were constructed with last season’s bust-supporting necktie design, while sculpted plastron bibs were rendered in cotton and pleated skirts were punked-up with butt plug buckles. Memories of O’Dwyer’s Killina Secondary School days informed mohair pullovers, cardigans and culottes crafted in the same wool plaid used in schools nationwide, and knitted tracksuits elevate games kits. Signature windowpane detailing adorned pleated culottes and halter neck bibs, while harnesses strap the body and jeans were introduced for the first time, adorned with Swarovski crystal appliqués. Throughout, O’Dwyer’s commitment to exploring body diversity and inclusivity shone: “When you begin to study fashion you’re already being given the body that you’re going to be designing upon,” said the designer during the in-conversation, referring to design mannequins, “The first decision you make should be the body you’re designing for.”

GALLERYCatwalk images from Sinead O'Dwyer WOMENS-SPRING-SUMMER-24





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