For their FW25 collection, Zegna took us to the rolling hills of Australia with a collection in celebration of their Vellus Aureum wool. Back in 1963, Ermenegildo Zegna founded the Wool Trophy Awards in Australia to support Australian woolgrowers in “their pursuit of the finest wool in the world.” The extra fine wool gathered from the award’s winners is then used to create Zegna’s Vellus Aureum, one of the softest and lightest wools in the world.

At the show, the models meandered around a plane of grassy hills that recalled the green vastness of Australian sheep farms. The collection featured many instantly recognisable Zegna mainstays – the baggy houndstooth suit, the high-waisted trouser, the open-collar coat and many, many sumptuous suits in earthy brown palettes. But there was also some exciting deconstruction at play. Many of the shirts featured a double-collar, blazers were looser and featured lower buttons, and many of the silhouettes were simply roomier, rather than form-fitting. Even the styling, which saw jumpers and tank tops tucked into high-waisted trousers, felt more natural and less editorial. This was very much the point, according to Zegna’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori who said in the show notes, “In this collection items are nonchalantly chosen and spontaneously mixed […] The man I have in mind has raided a wardrobe in which pieces have been collected over the decades.”

In an incredibly fun cameo during the show, actor John Turturro walked – but for Severence fans, it begged the question: was this his innie or his outie we saw?