At the press conference on the morning of Setchu’s Pitti Uomo show, the brand’s designer Satoshi Kuwata spoke about growing up in Japan in the 90s and finding solace in his local libraries. Fast forward to 2025 and due to the advent of the smartphone, fewer people than ever are visiting libraries. It was fitting then for the international press to descend on Florence’s Biblioteca Nazionale, Italy’s largest public library to witness Setchu’s first-ever runway show.

Setchu, which won the LVMH Prize in 2024, is all about the fusion between the West and the East. Founded in 2020, the name literally translates as ‘compromise.’ Kuwata was born and raised in Japan but trained on Savile Row in London, he later had stints at Givenchy and The North Face. The brand is a mix of seasonal collections (which have always been presented as lookbooks) and bespoke, made-to-fit tailoring. What exactly a Setchu runway would look like was the question on everyone’s lips as the crowds entered the Biblioteca.

The show, titled I Want Less, And Less Than That was all about reduction. Inspired by origami techniques and the way that light and shadow form across the folds on a sheet of paper, many of the outfits were based on flat shapes that were rendered in three dimensions once worn. Naturally, the collection had an emphasis on suiting, however many of the cuts and styles were far from traditional. There were asymmetrical blazers with only one lapel and double-breasted jackets that cut off just below the chest, blue dress shirts that flowed down to the ankles and trousers that were completely slit up the side.

There were also many avant-garde looks, such as a huge tarpaulin-like poncho and silk wraparound tops that were missing arms. Overall, it was an eclectic collection that covered many bases. It was clear that Kuwata was branching out here, suggesting a whole Setchu wardrobe rather than focusing solely on formalwear. For the brand, it felt like the most significant next step in becoming a force to be reckoned with.