Where The Silver Wind Blows
One season on and Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent woman have reached new terrain. From the sprawling desertscape of SS21, she emerges across windswept coastal rocks. A new energy exists here: under grey skies, these women populate this hostile floor like exotic creatures striding into the unknown.
Shown as an epic, cinematic film – titled Where The Silver Wind Blows – cameras swooped between waterfalls, glaciers and rugged cliff faces in harmony with the sweeping violins of Max Richter’s Sarajevo (2002). Deserving of a cinematic wide-lens, it had the psychodrama of a blockbuster epic – think if Ridley Scott directed David Attenborough.
“Hanging in the balance between right and wrong, the ephemeral takes over,” read the press release, “Colors clash against the black scene, exactly where the clothes were imagined.” Symbolic of the dichotomy of a world shaken inside out and a reminder of nature’s punch, here was a collection that battled the elements with ideas of fantasy, elegance and dancefloor glam in hand. Girls walked across this harsh landscape as if transported from another world. Practicality left at the Airbnb, these hardened ramblers trek in furry footwear, knee-high boots with heels as tall as craters and hemlines skimmed. Propelled onwards by a fierce wind, sinuous silhouettes took form across each body as if swept into shape.
Symbolically, this notion of a journey took us through the YSL archives, with Vaccarello as our guide. Elegant boucle fabrics and chic tailoring spoke of the house’s early 60s bourgeoise shapes, while Yves’ rebellious beat tones manifested across crystal four-leaf clover chokers (plucked from the archives), leather wader boots and numerous feathered pieces that brought a softness to the harsh setting. Glam dialled up to 11, tailoring was sequinned to perfection alongside ruffle shirts and metallic skirts, some with zips up the front, all with gold hardware belts. Sheer dresses draped across the body resembled jellyfish membranes while cascading sequins plastered across slim tailoring glistened as if they were crafted from rogue waterfall droplets.
A number of latex stretch bodysuits featured as a vivid homage to musical renegade Peaches, known for her avant-garde interpretations of the garment often accessorised with a firm middle finger. Here, they were paired with the more classic Parisian attitude of tweed suiting and fur coats.
“Serious matters push you to take other things less seriously, finding the balance while staying on the edge is a sophisticated aptitude.” This was the quote offered by Vaccarello, promoting a tantalising sense of imbalance we can get behind.
GALLERYCatwalk images from Saint Laurent WFW21