Chitose Abe likes to fuse silhouettes. At her hands, an overcoat inherits a new state of being – able to exist in the space between refinement and relaxed casuality. So, for FW23, Abe hinged on what she does best: “Exploring a theme of transformation.”

Layered, multifaceted pieces devised in conjunction with Moncler, a long-term collaborator, transmuted from down jackets into sharp tailoring. Pinstripe boiler suits with contrasting pockets were styled with mesh tees featuring the phrase: “We used to look up in the sky and wonder at our place in the stars.” A reference to the film Interstellar, which Abe also paid homage to in the form of bookshelf-print puffer jackets and fine knits.

For women, bell-sleeved tunics rendered in tweed dramatically split at the hemline, divided by zip inserts. A square-neck mini dress finished with a mesh turtle-neck felt like a revolutionary take on a nun’s habit, styled with over-the-knee boots for a sensual feel.

This collection also marked the debut of the brand’s collaboration with workwear specialist Carhartt. A waist apron-turned-mini skirt was styled with a cropped workwear jacket covered in gold hardware while a parka jacket with a decadent fur hood felt premium without compromising on its street-style roots. As part of the label’s ongoing partnership with Nike, the show also marked the release of the Nike x Sacai Magmascape: a brand-new terrain-ready silhouette. Sophisticated and subversive, Abe continues to push the boundaries of convention, looking at the “past, present and future” to create cutting-edge designs from head to toe.