For Spring, Sacai designer Chitose Abe thought of Paradise Garage, the legendary nightclub that acted as platform for the rise of disco and house music culture in 1980s New York City. The hint came in the logo, printed on jackets, for those that could spot it, but there was the electric feel of it elsewhere: the palm tree prints, coloured garlands around the neck, the grungy Buffalo checks. And of course drilled in by the booming soundtrack. I Feel Love by Donna Summer and Aleem’s Release Yourself. Yes. Just, yes.
It may not have been clothing to dance in but it certainly channeled the party mentality: the clash of colour and print, the hedonistic vibe of go-hard-or-go-home clubbers out for a real good time. This is one of Abe’s most potent strengths – apart from having a masterful way with pattern cutting, in the Japanese tradition before her, she also has a knack for combining eclectic references and making them feel right. There were opposing checks and prints, a new take on herringbone and wide knitted ponchos thrown over the shoulder.
The key vision behind the collection was clothing that a boy had picked up from a pile on the floor, ready to go out. It gave everything a welcome sense of ease – combining past and present, this was clothing that the Sacai boy would want to wear now. “A hybrid of all periods and places and genders,” went the PR line. Bang on, guys. A collection Larry Levan would be proud to wear while spinning. House music all night long.
GALLERYBackstage at this show