Ancora revisited

Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci menswear debut mirrored his womenswear
By Barry Pierce | Fashion | 13 January 2024

Gucci’s FW24 Menswear show worked in tandem with SS24 Womenswear. Once again, Mark Ronson was back to provide the music and the previous show’s title, Ancora, returned. There were even a number of looks, such as the cardigan with the large studded collar and the red leather jacket, that actually appeared on both runways.

The show began with a number of formal looks, single-breasted suits and simple overcoats, off-set with large chunky necklaces. A festival of leather followed with a variety of coats and jackets in blood reds and heritage greens. The standout leather pieces however have to be the plethora of gloves, all of which were matched with sleek patent bags in the same colour.

As the show continued, it became clear that this would be the season of statement coats. From studded coats to snakeskin jackets, padded lime green bombers and huge trenches that dragged along the runway, Sabato De Sarno did that surprisingly rare thing of matching style with genuine practicality.

On foot, a new style of shoe made its debut. A loafer with a thick Creeper sole and statement horsebit felt like a genius melding of classic style with punky aesthetics, in fact there were even a couple of fully studded pairs that felt gloriously out there. Here was De Sarno further establishing his Gucci, finding rhythm and pace.

GALLERYCatwalk images from Gucci MENS-FALL-WINTER-24