This season, Rick Owens looked to his winter destination of choice: Luxor, Egypt. More specifically, Owens found inspiration in Cecile B. DeMille’s fantastical take on the country, The Ten Commandments: a film he watches on repeat. The historical splendour of Egypt was evident in his collection – models resembled royalty in black and metallic looks, eyes lined in Cleopatra-esque black makeup. Another focal point for Owens this season was the war in Ukraine. “We are one year into a war and witnessing how inspiring dignity in the face of aggression can be,” read the show notes.

Cape dresses with extreme splits that finished at the thigh or armpit were in abundance. The designer’s “Duvet donuts” also made a comeback. One slick black leather iteration swaddled a model to the point where they looked as if they were being consumed by a black hole. Another wore theirs draped around the shoulders, robust and domineering in expression. Belted jackets in the same fabric as Owens’ menswear offering featured equally complex geometric patterns, suggesting an air of regality.

An all-black sequin cape was teamed with extreme footwear – think medical boots but with a high-fashion twist. Again, in the same vein as the designer’s menswear pieces, denim skirts unravelled into threads, artistically layered over platform boots. Structural aluminium bracelets and chokers with a dark-bronze finish were reminiscent of shackles, referencing Owens’ preoccupation with reservedness this season. But despite the nods to containment, his models were free to be as sensual as they liked.