Taking a ‘no rules’ approach to his first menswear show, Richard Chai’s soft suited and billowing culotte clad boys of Spring, strode out of anarchic suburbia. Front-row attendees were all handed their very own vapes, a nod towards an upcoming collaboration between Chai and Pax for a special portable vaporizer – a rather surreal sign of the times we live in.

Sleeveless, rolled up, unbuttoned and half-tucked shirts reflected the designer’s own misspent adolescent years in ’90s New York, skateboarding between thrift shops in search of secondhand Burberry trench coats. For Chai, these days were soundtracked by the indie vanguards, cue graphic prints inspired by Morrissey album artwork.

The Chesterfield overcoat, a staple of Chai’s label, came reinterpreted, this season in lighter fabrics and heritage patterns. The flow-full culottes, worked together with features such as high waists and expanded collars to redefine the silhouettes, producing a show of bold dressing and nonconformist determination.