We missed the jolt of an Aaron Esh runway on the London Fashion Week schedule, such is the charge his name now carries since his SS24 debut. Instead of a live show, this season’s collection was presented as a lookbook shot around East London – Esh’s stomping ground – photographed by Johnny Jordan, styled by Katy England. “The setting reinforces the intention behind the clothes,” read the show notes, “designed to exist naturally within real life, not apart from it.”

“Real clothes for real people,” continued the text; namely Esh’s own circle, whose shared sensibilities, tastes and – most definitely – wardrobes shape the brand’s DNA. House signatures were honed to a sharper pitch through precise fabrication and exacting tailoring. Military codes met indie silhouettes – a 00s collision recalibrated for now – as taut leather and wool overcoats layered over draped silk and the kind of distressed denim that only gets better the less you take off. A supple suede trench took on sculptural weight paired with a knitted hood, as pitch-black dresses draped with noir romance. On foot, Esh’s new footwear collaboration with Zara and Katy England left its mark on the East London turf.