Rachel Scott’s debut collection for Proenza Schouler had New York City at its heart. The Proenza Schouler woman this season was very much a city girl. She runs for taxis, as can be seen in the purposefully rumpled dresses and skirts that are twisted to appear as if in motion. She exudes an air of total calm, however. She is enigmatic and capricious.

Scott knows this woman well. Her collection was reliably all-occasions. A speckled grey wool dress could work for the office and for the bar. The whole vibe could change with the simple addition of a clutch. Suits spoke to power wardrobes, in business greys and paired with dramatic leather riding boots, while trousers and dresses featured grommets, a reference to casual tracksuiting.

There was a huge focus on the materials throughout. Wools, viscose, and Donegal knits made up a host of silhouettes, while soft habotai silk was crushed and pleated. Twisted yarns were full of colour and photographic imagery was printed onto fabrics, not perfectly, allowing the edges to show. Footwear was either fringed or had exaggerated square toes, and bags harked back to archival pieces, such as the Hex, but presented in calf hair and cashmere suede.