Architecture, colour, military and messaging have been the four pillars of Qasimi’s brand identity from inception, first led by the late Khalid Al-Qasimi and now by his sister and current creative director, Hoor Al-Qasimi.

Titled Between Ashes and Roses, after the work of Syrian poet Adunis, in which he explores new beginnings and the healing power of nature, SS22 carries a similar message, that of hope and prosperity.

Qasimi streamed the co-ed show, shot at St. Ann’s Court, the modernist all-white country estate built by architect Sir Raymond McGrath in the early 20th century. Architectural references carry across to the garments themselves with geometric designs echoing Islamic architecture, while a cotton jacquard weave developed in-house referenced Middle Eastern monochromatic brickwork, translating the brick relief into the embossing and debossing of woven yarns.

Colours from the Indian subcontinent are cast throughout the collection, with vibrant bursts of orange, purple and pink punctuating more neutral tones. Middle Eastern and Gulf inspired garments and craft techniques were visible: the Kandora, a traditional Gulf floor-length robe, became minimalist tailoring while the tarbousha, a woven tassel, a woven decorative embellishment was reimagined as a key ring clipped onto garments.

A laser-cut green bomber jacket was a nod to mesh canopies used as camouflage in the military, while jewellery from Lahore-based designer Zohra Rahman decorated models – her stunning artisanal work echoing Qasimi’s own, refreshing traditional looks through innovative techniques developed in her workshop in Pakistan.  A brand forged on strong values, Qasimi recently donated towards Medical Aid for Palestinians, while this season sees them work with the BFC’s 50/50 project, encouraging inclusivity and diversity within the workplace.