The goo returns

Prada SS24: pink ooze, fringed looks and an evil creature mascot
By Barry Pierce | Fashion | 22 September 2023

For Prada’s SS24 womenswear show, we were back at the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada, the green slime of their menswear show in June now replaced with a new season pink ooze. The front row, naturally for Prada, was made up of the biggest names of right now — Hunter Schafer, Kylie Jenner, Ayo Edebiri, even Wes Anderson was there in his trademark white cotton suit.

Somewhat unique for a runway collection, the standout piece was a handbag. But not just any handbag, the Prada Milano Dal 1913 was originally designed by Mario Prada, Miuccia’s grandfather, and appears this season reproduced and reinterpreted. An evening bag with frame clasp, it features a hand-carved fastening depicting a mythological creature’s head – tongue out, sending evil vibes to everyone you walk by.

As for the clothing, the standouts were the numerous “haze” dresses, their superfine organza and gazar almost floating along as the models walked. They were ethereal numbers, totally hypnotising all who gazed upon them. This continued across sheer scarves, or ‘fragments of dresses’ as the show notes described, and fringe dresses and shirts (including collars) that looked like they’d been shot through the shredder. The delicacy of these looks worked in contrast with distressed, oversized workwear jackets and ‘boring’ office looks – cardigans, pleated trousers and tailoring – twisted with that trademark Prada subversion – belted and elongated. Elsewhere, metal trim danced like disco streamers, flowing in rhythm with the models’ steps, a little punk flourish from Raf and Miuccia. Also notable were the shoes, mules, Mary-Janes and high-heeled pumps in a variety of in-yer-face colours, hot pink and nuclear green.