Phoebe English’s latest collection was reminiscent of a scene from an English stately home as aprons, bonnets and pinafores harked back to the 1910s, yet each elegantly transformed for today. Embarking on a foray into fabric and form, English told us in an exclusive preview before the show: “I tend to work directly with textures and forms building them onto the body. I was working directly with the clothes and surfaces to build textures on textures and three-dimensional forms, trying to get an electric magpie feel.” This resulted in garments accented with neatly looping frills, geometric quilting, crinkled fabrics and skewed folds. Sticking to a predominantly neutral colour palette throughout, flashes of colour arrived as a striking red ribboned heart and draped chartreuse dresses.

Committed to an ethos of upcycling and sustainability, English crafted her vision from hotel bedding, bridal waste off-cuts and surplus fabrics – their stories retained and reimagined as a canvas for future wearers. In a continuation of this minimal waste ethos, SS24 also unveiled the second iteration of the Phoebe English and Lavenham collaboration, formed of limited edition garments and accessories responsibly produced on British soil.