Continuing the unexpected aquatic theme already presented this Paris Fashion Week (see Maison Margiela’s futurist creatures of Atlantis), Julien Dossena’s functional collection for Paco Rabanne set a distinct agenda. Invites were minimal and bound with functional elastic, imitating the cut-out athletic details soon to come down the runway.

The looks were practical and presented as a new urban uniform – a focus on separates and freedom of movement was accompanied by slicked back hair and breathable fabrics. The collection built on the practicality of Rabanne’s previous collection but became more streamlined, while not forgetting the importance of structure. Monochrome sportswear took centre stage, with covered hair adding a certain mystery and anonymity to the Rabanne woman. A strong collection from Dossena, who’s firmly making his mark at the storied house.