Does the connection we now take as a given kill creativity? Is plugging in the new tapping out? These were the question pondered by Olly Shinder for his SS24 Fashion East debut. A much-hyped name in the city’s fashion circles, Shinder only graduated from CSM in 2022 but his namesake brand can already be bought in Dover Street Market Paris. If that wasn’t impressive enough, his graduate collection was photographed by none other than Wolfgang Tillmans, who also provided the soundtrack for Shinder’s SS24 show.

In just a few collections, Shinder has shown us exactly what he stands for in fashion – classic masculine silhouettes projected through a soft lens. As SS24 showed us, there was a strong emphasis on military-style and rave gear. High neck zip-ups with hi-vis stripes were paired with studded shorts, along with permanently mucky cargo trousers and leather wristbands, it was all very j’adore hardcore. But, in other places, there was the swish of sheer trousers, the sharp point of a collar, and zips that revealed pecs and pits. Masculinity through that soft lens – it’s no wonder Tillmans is such a fan.