Sheer class
Nensi Dojaka continued her conversation with nature this season, greeting each guest with an individual bloom. The tone was set for a collection honouring her eternal inspiration – the flower. Reinvented in hand-pleated tulle panels, frill-lined bra cups and godets unfolding across skirts like petals pooling at the ankle, the humble flower truly had its moment.
A striking dichotomy of opaque and sheer material underpinned the core of the collection, knitted cut-out leggings stood alongside sweatpants with hip strap detailing to articulate an air of mystery within her lingerie-based aesthetic. Altering perceptions, Dojaka debuted a flurry of new codes into her repertoire: eveningwear silhouettes were transformed by pearls and Swarovski crystals, embroidered onto tulle to mimic the effect of falling snow, or adhered onto nude illusion gowns to trace the intricacy of the female form.
Denim arrived for the first time in the shape of hybrid trousers accented by georgette panels and lace inserts, paired with the designer’s signature slinky bra-blazer combo for a tougher take on her usual dainty ensembles. On foot, tulle and leather ankle boots were introduced alongside the brand’s signature kitten and high heels in satin, velvet and fine jersey. All that being said, the designer’s naked dress still undoubtedly reigns supreme, fashioned in a recurring palette of red, berry pink, black and white.
As models including the likes of Caroline Trentini, Imaan Hamman and Adut Aketch paraded down the runway for a closing finale to the sound of Kim Petras, the studio space was awash in a hue of siren red – deep, passionate, intense.
GALLERYCatwalk images from Nensi Dojaka WOMENS-FALL-WINTER-23