Housed in a former train station on the outskirts of Milan, MM6 Maison Margiela delivered a collection which toyed with subversion and assumption. Form and structure were the stars of the show as each garment was distorted or manipulated to alter perception, offering up a series of newfound Margiela staples.

We were unable to decipher where one garment began and another ended as hoods emerging from coats proved to be removable scarfs and boxer short waistbands poking above straight-leg blue denim jeans were not borrowed from a boyfriend but built-in with a fastening drawstring. True to form, fabrics were spliced, shredded and mashed together as finely crafted shirts were rounded off with chunky leather sleeves and tailored wool blazers were foiled down the front. Deceptive construction arrived in the form of gilets opening up to reveal plackets of a padded hiking vest and a tailored waistcoat while the foil on the aforementioned blazer was a recurring motif across sweaters and jersey tunics throughout. 

Familiarity was felt in the colour palette as comforting hues of beige, camel, grey and black interspersed with a subtle floral pattern and splashes of denim, allowed the technicality of design to stand at the fore. The same codes the French house refashioned this season were seen on foot as bulky thigh-high boots were crafted from distressed suede complete with a subtle platform to give the illusion of height. Pointed kitten heels were given a silver finish and the iconic Japanese Bag returned as a triple-handled iteration in a continuation of new interpretations. Although it was a collection built on smoke and mirrors, the exposed backstage set-up proved there were no tricks involved – just a fresh perspective.