design and adapt

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ exploration of form and function beats on
By Lakeisha Goedluck | Fashion | 16 January 2023

For the past two years, every collection co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have debuted has been a tour de force. Long-standing veterans within the fashion scene, the pair have always had the propensity to understand the essence of design and adapt, elevate and re-envision sartorial codes to introduce something entirely new altogether. “The most honest thing we can do is to create something useful for people today,” Prada said of the FW23 collection.

Intent on designing pieces that carry meaning, the creative directors looked at archetypal design tropes and tinkered with them as they saw fit. The suit jacket and trousers combination was transformed through the insertion of colourful, protruding collars. Meanwhile, padded vests and collarless bomber jackets with subtle logo branding came in pristine white to ensure that attention would be firmly fixed on form. Fold-over cross-body bags were styled tucked under longline coats and jackets as a further testament that this was the induction of a new normal. Essentially, it was all about “taking the recognisable but changing it through silhouette and cut”, as Simons adroitly explained. Held at the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada, the ceiling ascended to transform the space – a purposeful move on the label’s behalf to echo the collection’s ethos: “a reconstruction of meaning, of identity, activated through a minimal gesture”. Proving that where Prada and Simons are concerned, even the smallest of details are implemented with intention.

GALLERYCatwalk images from Prada MENS-FALL-WINTER-23