Designed for a lifetime
For Michael Rider’s sophomore Celine show, he invited guests to Parc de Saint-Cloud, a former nature reserve on the left bank of the Seine. A flurry of black SUVs and sightings of Uma Thurman and Natasha Lyone, we imagine, are a far cry from the suburban park’s usual happenings. Among the forestry stood a raised runway, open to the heavens above on a thankfully pleasant Sunday morning.
“We saw this collection as a continuation, as if the July show never really ended. The women and men kept walking, and the seasons changed,” said Rider of his latest offering. The codes presented during couture week in July remained steadfast, with riding helmets carried under models’ arms and the designer’s experimentation with printed silk scarves shapeshifted into rugby shirts and shoulder bags, draped over jackets or artfully tied around models’ shoulders. Brilliantly strong outerwear persisted, this time lighter for spring. Classic navy blazers and cropped trenches replaced the sumptuous faux furs and cocooning leathers, paired with casual denim or high-waisted equestrian pants. When eveningwear did appear, it was seemingly interspersed, arriving in the form of an understated silk leopard print gown or a purple sequined turtleneck dress paired with effortlessly chic round sunnies and leather flats.
A sentiment true to any designer who takes over the helm of a storied house, bridging the gap between past and present, is paramount. Drawing on the tenures of Hedi Slimane and Phoebe Philo to articulate the next chapter, touches of each were felt this season. The feminine florals of Philo’s era were reimagined in full-skirted mini dresses, while black leather outerwear and billowing white silk scarves harked back to the designer’s Spring 2010 show. Slimane’s streamlined menswear silhouette was evident in Rider’s tailoring, sending a series of slim-fitting suits down the runway, but this time paired with loose shirting or a graphic knit.
“We were thinking about what Celine is and what it isn’t,” said Rider. “We were thinking about good times, about lightness, and about summer heat… About things that last, and things that are just a moment. And about how clothes, shoes, and all of it become a part of the memories we make wearing them.” Striking a balance between opulence and moderation, this was a collection crafted for good times – and designed to endure.
GALLERYCatwalk images from Celine WOMENS-SPRING-SUMMER-26