With technical innovation still at the heart of the label’s operations, Matthew M. Williams’ first 1017 ALYX 9SM show in Milan placed a renewed focus on structured outerwear, their utilitarian oeuvre still well intact. Giving new meaning to the power-shoulder with an abundance of shearling coats, reversible jackets and PVC trenches, shoulders hung in sharp exaggeration, ready to take flight or snatch their pray upon command. Of course, this impression was immediately softened in the shapely gowns of Williams’ womenswear, replacing shiny burgundy with soft lavender and puffy coats with single strapped heels and cocoon-like handbags.

The high-ceilinged setting, an opulent and dilapidated church building, only emphasised the uniqueness of Williams’ tactile garments. Across a variety of natural and synthetic materials, including nylon, leather and textured outer-wools, his dresses donned perforated mesh as body-hugging catsuits were embossed with gathered shoulder sashes, cargo pants explored slashed 3D print pockets and sleek black feathers emerged from hoods and plastic collars. Williams might as well have called the collection ‘Look and please touch’.