Marni’s creative director Francesco Risso has only been in the role since 2016, but he’s managed to fuse his youthful style into recent collections, putting his stamp on the brand’s quirky heritage. Last season, models waltzed down the catwalk in creased clothing (who has time to iron nowadays?), transporting the Italian fashion house back to more carefree days. In Milan this weekend, Risso’s SS18 menswear show wrote a new chapter in this story.
Little boy lost was the theme for this collection, drawing from the idea of a “well to do boy” who “falls in permanent vacation,” as the show notes explained. “Giving up rules, allowing randomness to shape his own bits and pieces.” With the collection, this translated to vibrant, bright hues entwined with oversized silhouettes and pinstriped suits, complete with askew ties – like this young man has playfully commandeered his dad’s wardrobe. Not your typical ‘day at the beach’ attire, but that was the whole point. The Marni man is on a road to self-discovery, ditching the rules and expectations whilst finding himself along the hazy, dreamlike path he’s floating down.
V-neck knitted tank tops over floral Hawaiian style shirts? Absolutely. Child-like drawings on scrap material, attached any way and any how? Of course. And those pieces with that reoccurring sailboat pattern? We’ll take them all. In this breezy utopia, anything goes. If this is what the Marni of the future looks like, we’re on board.
GALLERYBackstage at this show