Lost in a trance
“We’re moving forward but we’ve not forgotten the past decade.” This season was a celebration for Marcelo Burlon, marking ten years since he founded the eponymous label. And as we well know, this designer sure knows how to celebrate. The show, held at Milan’s incredible Velodromo Vigorelli arena, featured a mix of models and friends of the brand, and even Burlon himself, who all walked to an appropriately techno-infused soundtrack – before a designer, Burlon was a DJ and club kid – that opened with Free by Ultra Naté and ended with a mix of Corona’s The Rhythm Of The Night – certified 90s bangers.
Show notes described the SS23 as “a circular feeling” and it felt like a full-circle moment – note the venue shape – with a collection that featured many of Burlon’s signature motifs and silhouettes from the last decade, reimagined. most notably his hallmark wings motif that first propelled him into the fashion arena. While always playful, here Burlon updated his brand codes with that sense of maturity a big birthday commands. Looks swayed from understated to bold, single-colour creations alongside busy all-over print designs and heavy patchworking across baggy skater denim and an oversized suit layered in various pink hues. Towards the end, a series of tie-dye looks nodded back to the circular theme, their spiralling patterns drawing us into a trance – in every meaning of the word.
GALLERYCatwalk images from Marcelo Burlon County of Milan SPRING-SUMMER-2023