Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s hotly anticipated debut for Ann Demeulemeester sought to carve a new path for the Parisian fashion house; one that looked undoubtedly more Ludovic in its sensuality, but ultimately sought to preserve – and evolve – existing signatures. 

“Writing a letter is always about the sender just as much as it is about the receiver,” read the show notes. “It’s an encounter, an exchange. In this collection, word after word, Ludovic de Saint Sernin keeps finding himself in Ann, while maintaining his distinctive sense of self. It’s an intro, a preamble, and as such, to be continued.”

Opening and closing the show at Lycée Carnot were asymmetrically-draped silk maxi skirts, paired with a single horizontal feather across the chest – a symbolic image serving as a love letter to Demeulemeester’s dark and romantic universe. This was no ordinary quill however, but one crafted out of leather and wood. Faultless tailoring remained at the heart of FW23, alongside buttery soft leathers and elongated shirt cuffs, while accessories such as knee-high buckled boots drew their inspiration from equestrianism. A particular highlight were de Saint Sernin’s archive-inspired fur shawls, wafting through the air as the models stormed the runway clutching their bare chests – a fierce and theatrical silhouette.