This season, Ludovic de Saint Sernin was thinking about the “slow smoulder of desire” – tbf, when is he not? A collaboration with artist Jean Claracq marked the brand’s first foray into couture-like needlework – engulfing flames were delicately embroidered on silky boxer shorts, a juxtaposition between the French painter’s figurative style and an exploration of the contemporary queer lingo coined on social media (flame emojis at the ready). 

In keeping with the FW21 season, which tapped into e-boys with the designer’s signature sex-positive, inclusive approach, this collection exuded sexuality and a muted sense of comfort and intimacy. If the former came by way of a sneak peek into its forthcoming capsule with Pornhub, the latter was reflected through flowy fabrics like taffeta and raw silk, gently flared trousers, sensibly hand-braided lambskin mini bandeau tops and a soft palette of sandy beige, ecru and earthy brown, all inspired by the volcanic landscapes of Spanish island Lanzarote.

Though lace-up briefs, thongs and sheer matching pieces nodded to undergarments, the line-up also spoke of nights out; a couple of white, eyelets-detailed trench coats were paired with wide-leg trousers and sandals, while the womenswear counterpart to Ludovic’s sexed-up guy was reflected through a series of barely-there designs, strappy dresses, fine-knit separates and body-hugging eveningwear embellished with shimmering Swarovski crystals. Real objects of desire.