Renaissance touch

Loewe SS22: Jonathan Anderson evokes the subtle drama of Renaissance painter Pontormo
By Alex James Taylor | Fashion | 6 October 2021

“The Loewe Spring Summer 2022 collection is an experimental statement that marks a point of departure, and opens a new chapter.” Drawing on notions of draping, sculpting and colour via the works of Renaissance painter Pontormo (aka Jacopo Carucci), Anderson’s own SS22 Renaissance was carved as “neurotic, psychedelic, completely hysterical.”

Conveying movement and expression, lines appeared twisted and contorted, creating narrative through shape, and dresses were cut to new forms as gold and silver plating was incorporated into coats and dresses like glimmering gemstones. Capes became angelic wings influenced by “erotic manga characters” – with matching cropped pastel haircuts – and 3D metal wire beneath garments birthed new silhouettes evoking the expressive drama of Pontormo. Sporty nylon tracksuits were puffed out and ruffled in sculptural, elegant forms, super sequinned dresses reflected a new future, and everyday objects – soap bars, candles, eggs, nail polish and roses – replaced shoe heels as a reflection of fragility and spontaneity.

A delicate ambient soundscape encompassed the minimalist showspace, guiding this composition of emotive fantasy orchestrated by Anderson’s artisanal guile.

GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show