Make it POP

Toys, balloons and car dresses: Loewe FW22 mixes eccentricity and kink
By Bailey Slater | Fashion | 5 March 2022

If you were enamoured by the topsy-turvy wonderland Jonathan Anderson birthed for the Loewe men’s runway last month, hold on to your hats, cause you ain’t seen anything yet.

This season Anderson continues to make the impossible a feasible style reality in his sentient fashions, trapping racecars inside bodycon gowns and heels inside slinky, pale mesh party dresses. Playing out alongside Anthea Hamilton’s Giant Pumpkins (2022), dotted around the scene in vast, scaled forms crafted from supple leather, FW22 presented itself as a texture-filled feast of touchy materials: be they burgundy tunics fashioned out of silky latex, clunky boots devised from rope-pulled bags or plump, puckering lips turned into hard, sculpted breastplates.

Making a motif out of balloons in various states of deflation, Anderson continued to toy with the surreal as heels were slit open and carved into their shiny corpses, some wrapping themselves around slender leather straps, others forming the bodacious soles of patent red boots. These same shapes appeared on skin-tight dresses and layered under spliced beige bodices with tied-nipple-knots just ready to POP! into oblivion.

It was the type of show where kink got its rocks off in latex LBDs, before immediately being transposed against a well-trodden carpet dress and its singular, curling sleeve. Where Trompe l’oeil prints conjured up visions of leather biker jackets atop streamlined ponchos or took to creamy shift dresses as a pair of hands caressing the body’s more intimate areas. Nothing was off the cards, really, not least in Anderson’s engorged polo-ring scarves or glistening, ribbon-wrapped heels your mum would kill you for replicating out of her hidden stash of gift-giving materials. Eccentricity is all around us it seems, at least if Anderson’s in the room.

GALLERYBackstage images from Loewe WOMENS-FALL-WINTER-22

GALLERYCatwalk images from Loewe WOMENS-FALL-WINTER-22