So zen

Lemaire SS16
26 June 2015

Christophe Lemaire has always been quiet and singular in his approach to his eponymous label – ‘it is always about the idea of showing a man who is steady,’ he said. Shown in a simple white room that is by day an art gallery, Lemaire provided an appreciated moment of calm after the theatrics of Milan, a feeling reflected in the clothing itself. This was effortless, thoughtful design, ready to be worn straight out on to the Parisian street.

It was this ease that defined the collection. The cuts allowed room to breathe, to layer – single-breasted coats that fell loosely on the body, wide-leg pleated trousers or an elongated collarless shirt that secured this season’s penchant for all things zen. It was reflected too in the muted colour palette – beige, black, white, camel, a deep navy. A splash of print was restrained to a single coordinating suit.

For Lemaire and his co-designer Sarah-Linh Tran, it was about taking a garment and evolving it, knowing how to leave it be when it reaches the perfect point. It is this subtle movement that defines the brand – a welcome steadiness in a rapidly moving world.

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