With ambient light filling the room and Julee Cruise’s Falling version of Angelo Badalamenti’s ethereal Twin Peaks theme song floating from the speakers, the finale to Kim Jones’ Fendi FW23 show was an especially stirring experience for those of us who religiously rewatch the David Lynch series once a year. And there was something of the Gordon Cole and Dale Cooper in the sophisticated camel macs (elevated with glistening, sequinned lining) and immaculately tailored suiting on show here. (OK, maybe we’re reaching with the Twin Peaks now.)

Models appeared from a dramatic kaleidoscope portal of light at the end of Jones’ runway, as if they’d gracefully landed on Earth in their new-age spaceship, seemingly dressed to do business with whoever is in charge. Here, the earnestness of the word ‘officewear’ was shattered as Jones reconstructed its codes, making it fun, modern, powerful – and sexy. Jones was thinking about the Fendi matriarchy, a family of strong women constantly evolving in tune with the zeitgeist. Delfina Delettrez Fendi (who designs Fendi’s jewellery) in particular was a source of inspiration, the way she takes archive pieces and wears them in such a modern manner.”It all started with Delfina. There’s a chicness but a perversity to the way she twists Fendi, which is what I love,” said Jones in the show notes. “The first day that Delfina walked into work, she was wearing blue and brown, and I thought she looked so great. There’s a chicness but a perversity to the way she twists Fendi, which is what I love.”

On the runway, sleeved waistcoats were crafted with shoulder cut-outs, pleated aprons were crafted onto the front of skirts, delicate knit column dresses hugged the body and a boilersuit expanded the idea of ‘workwear’. Knitwear was slashed in homage to Jones’ London home and its DIY punk sensibility, while leather thigh-high, lace-front boots hinted at fetishism. Pleated aprons were crafted onto the front of skirts and trains draped from the back of trouser suits with dramatic elegance. Elsewhere, a vertical stripe knitted dress was inspired by one from Karl Lagerfeld’s FW96 collection in homage to the late designer who spent more than 50 years at Fendi and is set to be celebrated this May via a blockbuster exhibition at New York’s Met Museum. This was a lesson in elevation and craft, subverting and celebrating notions of classicism through Jones’ reconstructive lens.