Suspended above La Seine as the sun set behind the Eiffel Tower, Kenzo transformed the Passerelle Debilly into their SS24 runway: now the second house to show on one of the French capital’s infamous bridges this season following Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton debut on Pont Neuf – Pharrell was sat front row. Soundtracked by tracks from Nigo’s youth in 80s Japan, a mix of pop, funk and soul set the tone for a collection fusing timeless French sensibility with the designer’s playful artistry. The show was titled City Pop Paris, referring to the rise of the Western-inspired City Pop music genre that emerged in post-war Japan during the formative years of the house’s founder Kenzo Takada. As a recent resurgence of City Pop is embraced by today’s generation, Nigo brings the sound to Paris.

Honouring Takada’s legacy alongside twists of the contemporary, Nigo crafted a wardrobe suspended between the East and West as traditional judo Uwagi garments were refashioned into chore jackets and the ancient Seigaiha wave motif print was emblazoned across indigo denim. Blazers fitted with the semi-detached sleeves of kimonos were met with slouchy interpretations of varsity jackets while the technicality of workwear was articulated via kimono-cut puffers and fitted ribbed jerseys. A creative dialogue with Japanese graphic artist Verdy presented a reinterpretation of the Kenzo logo in swashed all-over typography, notably seen on lapel-less tailored jackets and classic backpacks. Berets were supersized while a study of 1980s street photography sparked the introduction of guard caps, bucket hats and straw boaters sporting the brand’s logo.