Come Together
Hurtling all the way back to the Swinging Sixties, Kenzo’s creative director Nigo took the audience on a trip down memory lane in celebration of the brand’s archive. Held at the Salle Pleyel, the 1966 Quartet played a medley of songs by The Beatles, as styles that originated from the British band’s heyday revisited the runway. Two-piece jacket-and-skirt sets fit for a mod looked right at home alongside punk-inspired three-piece tartan looks, as Nigo made sure to pay homage to British design heritage. A collaboration with Hunter saw country wardrobe essentials take centre stage, as Irish Donegal tweed was reworked into cable-knit sweaters. The Scottish sporran bag was also reinvented, modelled after Kenzo Takada’s version which debuted back in the 80s. Most notable was the newly reworked Kenzo boke flower motif: fused with a target inspired by The Who’s iconic branding – the logo appeared on hybrid tennis-flat caps and swung from safety pin brooches.
American and Japanese craftsmanship was also dutifully celebrated. Blazers featured Y-front closures inspired by pieces from a traditional samurai wardrobe while a kimono-style jacket in cosy shearling featured quilted edging, made using the age-old sashiko embroidery technique. American workwear tropes were in abundance: denim aprons fused into dungarees while varsity jackets with statement patches were pointedly preppy. Elsewhere, kitsch Fair Isles knitwear, belted corduroy skirts and cowboy-style ankle boots felt distinctly western. A fitting tribute to his own oeuvre and that of his predecessor, Nigo effortlessly managed to update the past for a new generation.
GALLERYCatwalk images from Kenzo MENS-FALL-WINTER-23