Quality springs to mind when thinking of JW Anderson’s collections – quality of reference paired with an ability to make it his own. It’s a skill that’s been spotlighted in the past twelve months in Anderson’s new role at Loewe, a balancing act of past and present, oxidised to hone something familiar yet brand new. In the case of his own FW15 collection, Anderson took us once more down the much-touted ‘androgyny’ path. Yet it was in his mash ups, daringly grandiose in their remix of silhouettes and symbols past, that sculpted his future vision.
The floor covered in lightweight purple bark, Michel Gaubert’s hypnotic spoken-word track and white wash walls, garments of overwhelming proportions were instantly attention grabbing, while small details captured intrigue. Organza and mesh buttons looked like they floated onto clothing in an Autumn breeze, while rope knot buttons, isolated turtleneck stripe scarves with zip detail, shearling panels and wide-open sailor-like collars exaggerated coats and sweaters. Featuring primary and secondary colours, duel tones of blue, purple and green blended well with red and black whilst leather ran strong as a texture, sharp as fitted 60s jackets and blunt as bootcut trousers, slits to mid calf revealing ankle and a crumpled (and purposefully NQR) silhouette.
A standout piece was an ensemble entirely of teddy bear mohair, and colossal woven scarves with long fringing. Then there was that powder blue corduroy jacket and, of course, the flared-sleeve shirts.
Elegant yet compellingly unsettling. Anderson at ground zero.
GALLERYBackstage at this show
GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show