Fields of gold
Last summer, to celebrate the 10th anniversary show of his eponymous label, Simon Porte Jacquemus ferried the fashion set to a lavender-carpeted field in his native Provence. This season, undeterred by the pandemic that has caused many designers to turn away from the traditional catwalk in favour of other mediums, Jacquemus brought a smaller coterie of friends and family to an open wheat field near Us in the French Vexin Regional National Park, where they sat in one socially distanced row as models snaked down a winding runway beneath the opalescent early evening sky.
The show, streamed live to his followers, marked the label’s third co-ed show since the designer decided to scale down production, share fabrics across both collections and slow down the pace for his team. Titled L’Amour, it featured all the hallmarks of Jacquemus: breezy, cropped shirting, sinuous slip dresses with delicate straps and languid, loose-cut tailoring, rendered in a neutral palette of ivory, pastel yellow, sage green and black. In addition to the signature looks, the collection also featured a black mini dress embellished with yellow tassels and an ornately beaded skirt.
The men’s looks featured pastel yellow suits embellished with tiny knife and fork-shaped leather tassels, as well as shirts festooned with Picasso motifs and cut-out hearts, bringing a sense of whimsy and surrealism to the collection. There were more of the Insta-catnip Chiqito bags that debuted in the FW19 collection, as well as pillow-shaped totes and a “bag” that was, in fact, a sole plate inside a leather harness. It was a collection perfectly in tune with the current mood for cottagecore and bucolic picnic dressing, infused with Jacquemus’ contagious joie de vivre.
GALLERYCatwalk images from Jacquemus SS21