Is it possible to watch an Homme Plissé Issey Miyake show (or any Issey Miyake show, for that matter) and not immediately think: OK, can I have one of everything? The Japanese brand’s menswear division always focuses on pieces that act as both casualwear and formalwear and are one of the few collections every season where every piece is genuinely ready-to-wear. Their FW24 collection was no different.

Titled Immersed in the Wilds of Creativity, the collection was a “creative session” between the brand and the French artist and designer Ronan Bouroullec. Bouroullec is very much a friend of the brand, having designed the interior of the Issey Miyake A-POC store in Paris back in 2000. His paintings, many of which were directly recreated on numerous garments, feature abstract swaths of colour and felt almost custom-made for this collection. The first looks in the collection were simply cut shirts and tunics where the pristine white of the fabric essentially acted as the canvas for Bouroullec’s brushstrokes. 

A collection of scarves dominated the next section of the runway. Knitted with multi-coloured yarn, they had holes in considered places which allowed them to be wrapped and worn in multiple ways. You can slide your arm through them, fit them around your head like a turban, or just wear them around your neck in the traditional way. A notable silhouette in this section was an asymmetrical tunic that had one sleeve and a sort of side panel that you could rest your arm inside. (A standout look here was the pink tunic with the green scarf [Look 6], a colour combination that rarely gets the respect it deserves.)

Then came the outerwear. Poncho-like coats proudly displayed more of Bouroullec’s paintings while a duo of sleeveless, full-body overcoats [Looks 16 & 17] cut like trapeze dresses. 

In a wonderfully weird section of the show, the models appeared to be clutching cushions. No, they weren’t a hint at an Homme Plissé upholstery collection, but sacks that the coats can be stuffed into and then, genuinely, used as a cushion. Perfect for those Eurostar journeys to fashion week!