Text by Cristian Burbano

“This collection expresses a heartfelt desire for oxymorons and sophistication, contrasting materials, and superimposed elements tumbling after each other.” And with that, Véronique Nichanian presented her 2022 dandy: a man who not only curates his wardrobe, but has the ability to craft it, too.

Inside Paris’ historic Mobilier National building, Hermès hung tapestries from the collection housed inside the building, presenting originals alongside digital replications that faded during the show, leaving behind traces of paint strokes as a metaphor of time passing and the evolution of the dandy.

Colours were subdued – bronze, brown and charcoal mixed with bold accents of green, yellow and orange as a nod to the famous Hermès gift boxes. Rich textural interplay contrasted feels and finishes: outerwear was built in crisp technical canvas with lush lambskin lining, quilted blousons rendered in printed silkscreen with embossed rubberised lambskin, and wool jacquard twin-sets were developed with an oxidised effect that produced an exquisite look. Chelsea boots were mirrored and gunmetal leather riding boots added a little kink. 

With Hermès, the detail is paramount, behind every tailored blazer is a satin insert, and zipped oversized shirts are fitted with a secret pocket. Hermès’ iconic scarves were used as informal cravats on several looks, paired alongside the house’s new Haut à courroies Rock bags – a masculine take on the iconic Birkin.