Silhouettes androgynous and sharp, Haider Ackermann’s SS16 collection recalled the figure of conqueror, with shoulders strong, and waists belted and slender. It’s a signature outline that does this designer well – and he’s one up on the rest for wielding it so beautifully. When you can count Kanye West as a fan, you know you must be doing something right.
Pieces had the Ackermann air of bohemia with an upmarket tone. Low-rise chinos in blue hues were cuffed at the ankle, skinny lapels brimmed frayed scarves and leather and silk ties were wrapped around the empire line. A cultural amalgamation of travel and the outdoors inspired a cool colour palette, as prints ranged from the nostalgia of Breton stripes, to leopard printed loafers, to zebra printed shirts, and pinstripe vests. Polished chrome trousers in a crinkled copper and an optical illusion gold suit were standout ensembles, but in true Ackerman fashion, each detailed article had its place.
Long-line coats, kimono-inspired sleeves and bomber jackets injected a twist on classics when paired with long, patterned shirts with exaggerated cuffs and hemlines. As was the message imbued in the FW15 collection, effortlessly overstated is the way to go. Add a dash of gender ambiguity and you’ve got a recipe for urban hedonism.
GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show