In the seven defining years Alessandro Michele was at Gucci, he created a legacy, an identity that echoed across the zeitgeist. Following the designer’s departure from the Italian maison last year, yesterday saw a new Gucci era begin with a mighty drumroll. In the middle of the showspace were experimental noise rock trio Ceramic Dog, led by eminent musician Marc Ribot (he’s worked with the likes of Tom Waits, The Lounge Lizards, Elvis Costello, Allen Ginsberg, Robert Plant, Elton John), performing live – rousing the first day of Milan menswear with a kickdrum thump. 

So, in the house’s first showing since Michele, there was still rock ‘n’ roll, only here it was much more punchy and hard-riffed than the designer’s glam rock sensibility. This was reflected in the clothes, designed by the in-house team. Bomber jackets, motopants, jeans tucked into boots, tartan skirts cut up to the thigh, beanies and raw knitwear. There was a renewed toughness here, a hardened, stripped-back energy. But that doesn’t mean the exquisitely glam, camp sexiness Michele tuned in his seven years wasn’t present. It was there in a bright yellow, sleeveless, popper seam jumpsuit (a bit Devo, a bit It’s Raining Men), in a jacket that appeared to be made from thousands of collected flower petals, in the Jagger-esque tailoring, shimmering logo embroidery and patent leather trousers.

“The Gucci Fall Winter 2023 Mens Collection employs the circumstance of improvisation as a methodology: a constructive tool for creation,” reads the press release. “As a practice exercised in theatre and music, improvisation is founded in the know-how of its practitioners.”

An 80s trip, fired through a confetti canon: exit at Warhol’s Factory via the silver trousers paired with skinny tees, disrupt the board rooms of Gordon Gecko’s Wall Street in oversized suiting sliced at the knees, or hit the slopes with Princess Diana in padded skiwear, pastel gilets and leg warmers. Elsewhere, there was a clear nod towards Tom Ford’s reign at the Italian house in those louche proportions, deep, deep, deep V tee, bleached denim and suede loafers: Y2k, 00s boy band, Coca-Cola window washer, call it what you want.

A new Gucci era – same impeccable cool.