GmbH SS22

White Noise: GmbH present a study of whiteness and systemic prejudice
By Emma Pradella | Fashion | 26 June 2021

Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby, the design duo behind German label GmbH, have often explored their own history and heritage reflecting on themes of collectivity, be it the queer community or the Berlin club scene.

But for their SS22 line-up, dubbed White Noise, the designers flipped their focus and delved into a research of whiteness, the inconspicuous – yet ever so present – system that’s always been in charge of creating societal categorisations: “the system was invisible, which made it all the more impressive, all the more disquieting to deal with,” wrote Don De Lillo in 1985 – referenced in the press release.

There’s something so refreshingly endearing about the duo’s re-appropriation of ‘otherness’, their reclamation of something that’s otherwise so distant from their BIPOC, queer identity translating into something part-humorous, part-serious and an extremely relevant take on the tropes of the euro-centric fashion narrative.

The duo’s exploration of waspy, clichéd whiteness comes by way of leather separates, Americana-inspired shirting and Jodhpur-style boots and heavily distressed denim, while the brand’s signature off-the-shoulder, wrap-effect silhouette was cut into trenches and sumptuous, fuzzy coats in pastel hues. Sweaters were intarsia-knitted with the brand’s hammer emblem and t-shirts printed with the ‘Free Palestine’ slogan. GmbH leads by example when it comes to being outspoken in favour of the oppressed, championing inclusivity and an environmentally conscious ethos – so much so, that they’ve garnered the attention of storied Italian house Trussardi, where the designers will make their debut as co-creative directors this winter.

GALLERYCatwalk images from GmbH SS22





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